Easy-Enough-For-A-Weeknight Eggplant or Chicken Parm
All the comforts of this classic Italian-American casserole with none of the fuss
Issue 03 - From Dana’s Kitchen
If your family is anything like mine, you get pretty excited when eggplant parm is on the menu. Part of the appeal, for me at least, is that this cheesy, saucy casserole is usually reserved for special occasions. I grew up around seriously good Italian-American cooks, but as much as everyone loved this dish, no one in their right mind would endeavor it on a weeknight. If we were having eggplant parm for dinner on a Monday or Tuesday, it was from a Sunday celebration of some sort with my extended family – and you better believe we savored those leftovers, reheated with a side of pasta and extra sauce or sandwiched between good seeded bread.
When I made eggplant parm with my mother, holy moly was it a production: you had to slice and salt the eggplant, dip it in egg, dredge it in breadcrumbs, fry it, drain it on paper towels, make sauce, grate cheese, all before assembling it in a massive pan (and often, a smaller one to freeze for later, because if you’re going through all the trouble, why not make extra?) When it finally went into the oven, the sink was piled high with pots and pans and the kitchen was an oil-splattered, breadcrumb-coated disaster.
Early in my adventures cooking for my own family, I decided to figure out an easier way to get my eggplant parm fix. I sleuthed through recipes to see what could be tweaked or simplified – and learned a few interesting things along the way. Contrary to popular belief, eggplant parm, or melanzane alla parmigiana, has nothing to do with the city of Parma or Parmesan cheese. The “alla parmiagiana” method of layering ingredients with sauce and cheese refers to “parmiciana” or “palmiciana”, the overlapping shingles you often see on rooftops. The method originated in Southern Italy and was later popularized by Southern Italian immigrants in the States, who used the many-layered technique on other ingredients, too – thus, chicken parm, veal parm, even sausage and meatball parm.
My weeknight version is inspired by chicken parm, which is inherently easier because it involves bigger pieces and fewer layers. So you can make this recipe with either chicken or eggplant, a boon for those of you who might live with eggplant skeptics. Here are a few of the things it has going for it, and the lessons I share with our students and my own son when we make it together.
Swap breading for searing
There are Italian versions that skip the breading, surely with time and healthfulness in mind – same here. We turn this into a lesson in searing: when you brown the chicken or eggplant, the Maillard Reaction creates a caramelized (read: tasty) exterior, and the browned bits stuck to the pan release into the sauce, making it more delicious. For a deep dive into the food science behind this (or any!) technique, check out what Serious Eats has to say about it.
A single skillet saves the day
Instead of using separate pans for each component, then layering them all into a casserole dish, everything in this recipe happens in an ovenproof skillet: the searing of the chicken or eggplant, making sauce, the assembly and finally the baking. I use a 12-inch cast iron skillet that goes from stovetop to oven to table (and even to fridge then oven again for reheating.) Cast iron retains heat beautifully and this size is just right for a one-pan family meal. I collect vintage Griswold or Wagner skillets which develop a satiny non-stick finish, but you can’t go wrong with the affordable, pre-seasoned Lodge Versions.
Add some crunch
Just because we’re not breading and frying doesn’t mean we can’t add texture with breadcrumbs. Topping and broiling dishes with seasoned breadcrumbs (we prefer the crunchier, larger panko) is a pro move; it makes everything from mac and cheese to roast vegetables to the top of this parm more interesting.
We serve this dinner with garlicky sauteed greens or broccoli rabe zested with lemon and lots of good rustic bread or garlic bread for sopping up the sauce. The leftovers are fantastic reheated for lunch the next day (if there are any greens remaining, I just add them to the same pan), but to be honest, this meal usually disappears as soon as it hits the table.
Skillet Eggplant or Chicken Parm
Serves 4-6
3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, halved lengthwise, or 2-3 small Italian eggplants, trimmed and halved (about 1 1/2 pounds total for each)*
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
A few cracks freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 can (28 ounces) crushed tomatoes
2 teaspoons dried oregano or Italian seasoning
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves, plus more for garnish
Pinch dried red pepper flakes (optional)
3/4 cups panko breadcrumbs
1/2 cup (2 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese
2 cups (8 ounces) shredded low-moisture or sliced fresh mozzarella cheese
Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Season the chicken or eggplant with the salt and pepper.
In a large oven-safe skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium high. Working in batches if necessary, add the chicken or eggplant (cut side down) and cook until seared and browned, about 2 minutes. Flip the chicken or eggplant and sear the other side, another 2 minutes. If working in batches, transfer seared pieces to a plate, then return to the pan.
Reduce the heat to medium and evenly distribute the remaining two tablespoons of oil, garlic, tomatoes, oregano, fresh basil and red pepper flakes (if using) over and around the chicken or eggplant. Stir the sauce to combine all the ingredients and flip the chicken or eggplant to coat. (If your pan isn’t big enough to fit the chicken or eggplant in a single layer, use an oven-safe casserole dish or lasagna pan instead.) Transfer to the oven and bake until the chicken is cooked through (165°F) or the eggplant is tender, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, and a few cracks of black pepper. Remove the skillet from the oven, flip over each piece of chicken or eggplant, and turn on the broiler. Sprinkle 1 cup of the breadcrumb mixture, then all of the mozzarella, over the pieces; top with the remaining 1/4 cup breadcrumb mixture. Broil until the cheese is melted and bubbly and the breadcrumbs are browned, 2-3 minutes. Serve immediately, garnished with the remaining basil leaves.
*NOTE: If you can only find large Italian eggplants, slice them into rounds or planks about an inch thick. If using long Japanese eggplants, slice them in half lengthwise.