Romesco on Repeat

This sassy, springy sauce makes everything better

Issue 21: From Dana

In answering the question “What’s for dinner?” this time of year, I’m often reminded of some sage advice given to me by the NYC chef Peter Hoffman when I was writing a series of articles about his seasonal cooking years ago.

“It’s not just about what you have to cook, but how you want to eat,” he told me one spring morning after he’d bought a slew of vegetables at the Union Square Farmers’ Market and was figuring out what to do with them.  “I was thinking romesco,” he said. 

Romesco! What a good idea, and here’s why.

There’s something inherently fun and interactive about a meal that revolves around sauce: all that drizzling and dipping into something delicious. In fact, this sweet-smoky puree of roasted red peppers, tomatoes, and toasted nuts with shots of garlic and paprika, is at the center of a traditional communal outdoor feast in Catalonia, Spain, that happens annually when the calcots (a local allium that’s somewhere between a leek and spring onion) are ready. Cooks take to the streets to grill them over coals and serve them with a side of this zippy, bright red sauce. (And usually with no utensils – even more fun!) 

It’s the kind of meal that brings a community together, with music and conversations and free-flowing wine – now that’s how I want to eat this time of year. 

But if you’re thinking more backyard barbecue than block party, romesco is still a great choice because it makes a meal out of disparate ingredients: say, some seared steak or grilled fish, or a beautiful platter of those market vegetables. In that way, it’s a real people pleaser, and the main reason why it’s my secret weapon this time of year: the vegetarians are as happy as the carnivores, making their plate just the way they want it. (And if you make the sauce the way I do, without the traditional day-old bread as an added thickener, it checks off the gluten-free box, too.)

You can make romesco in five minutes flat – or your kids can. It’s a great introduction to the food processor or blender: just add all the ingredients and watch it come together in a chunky paste with a few pulses, or let it whirl into a smooth, emulsified sauce. Your call. 

When I make it with my son, it’s a lesson in seasoning: he dips in his spoon, considers if it needs more vinegar or garlic or whatnot. I remind him to add the smoked paprika gradually because you can always add more but you can’t take it away.  

But here’s the best thing about romesco: you can’t mess it up. Sometimes, I skip the tomatoes all together for a bolder spread, or I’ll use walnuts if I don’t have almonds. I call my recipe “Romesco-ish” because I forgo the bread. Watch Andy Baraghani make it (he’s a bread-skipper, too) and you can see just how free and loose you can be with it — and how much fun you can have with it.

Once you’ve made a batch, it’ll last a good while in the fridge – so you can put it on sandwiches, dollop it on fried eggs, or stir it into soups later in the week. I like to serve it with whipped feta and bruschetta, drizzled with more oil. In lazier moments, it’s lunch with leftover greens or scooped up with celery. 

And, just saying, it’s great to have it on hand in case an impromptu block party erupts outside your front door.

Romesco-ish
Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1/2 cup chopped canned or jarred roasted red peppers or pimientos, drained
1/3 cup diced ripe or canned tomatoes
1/3 cup slivered almonds, toasted (you can substitute walnuts)*
4 large garlic cloves
2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf Italian parsley leaves
1 teaspoon smoked paprika 
1 teaspoon red wine or sherry vinegar
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a food processor or blender, pulse the first seven ingredients until a chunky sauce forms. With the motor running on low, gradually add the oil in a steady stream to emulsify the sauce. (You can leave the sauce chunky or process until smooth.) Season to taste with salt and pepper. 

Serve immediately or transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Allow to come to room temperature before serving. 

* To toast your almonds: Place the nuts in a small skillet and toast on medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until golden and fragrant, about 3 to 5 minutes.