Stalking Asparagus

And a salad to savor it raw

Issue 23: From Sara Kate

Eight years ago I bought a house upstate with an amazing garden, tended for twenty plus years by the woman who lived there before me. Among its treasures was a giant asparagus patch that cranked out pounds and pounds of gifts every spring. There would be days in late May and early June where one trip out to the patch would yield a giant bowlful of the stuff.

The thing about asparagus is that you need to pick some and leave some in order to get more the next year. One year I made a terrible mistake and mowed over the ferned-out forest of spent asparagus too early and the next year absolutely nothing came up. I was gutted. 

But nature perseveres and the asparagus spirit did not die. A few seasons after the fatal mow, I started noticing a few pop up here and there, about 20 feet from the original patch. Was there an underground network of asparagus memory that got re-ignited? Has this patch of earth forgiven me for my callousness? What now comes each spring is never enough for a meal, so when I see one, I cut it and eat it raw, sitting on the lawn, regretting my mistake but also feeling incredible gratitude for how much this land has taught me. 

If you've never had asparagus raw, try this version. When shaved into long, thin ribbons, it makes a beautifully crisp and flavorful salad or side dish for these days that are warming and lengthening. This is one occasion when you should be looking for more robust pieces of asparagus rather than the pencil-thin stalks. I like to use a vegetable peeler to cut the ribbons (it feels safer especially with young ones helping), but a mandoline also works if you dare. Sliced into thin strips, the raw asparagus is crunchy yet pliable enough to wrap around a fork like pasta.

Get the kids involved in this one. Strike up a conversation as you slowly peel away thin ribbons of asparagus. Maybe tell them about a mistake you once made, or ask them if they have any regrets and help them turn it into a delicious lesson.

Lemony Asparagus Ribbons
Serves 4

1 pound asparagus, trimmed (about 20 spears)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/3 cup slivered almonds, toasted
1/3 cup shredded Parmesan cheese (about 1 ounce)

Using a vegetable peeler and working one stalk at a time, lay the asparagus flat on a cutting board and run the vegetable peeler along its length from the bottom to the tip, creating very thin, long strips.

In a large bowl, whisk together the oil and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the asparagus ribbons and gently toss with your hands until evenly coated. 

Transfer the asparagus to a serving dish or to individual plates. Scatter the almonds and Parmesan cheese across the top of the asparagus. Serve immediately.